In which G.M. Norton showcases another preening peacock.
I love dandies and I simply adore finding a wonderful new blog to read so you can imagine my joy when I discovered The Danish Chap's Attire Chronicles. A certain phrase springs to mind involving stones and birds.
The gentleman behind this chapspirational new corner of the world wide webular is one Lasse Hedensted.
As you can see from the below pictorials, Lasse is quite the natty dresser, impeccably turned out whether relaxing at home, out in the country or even standing by bus shelters!
Keen to feature my next real-life dandy and following in the footsteps of Yoshio Suyama, I was delighted when Lasse agreed to take part.
Pour yourself a couple of fingers of your favourite drink and find out a little more about this dapper Danish chap.
Name: Lasse Hedensted
Occupation: Team Manager IT & Helpdesk
Place of birth: Aarhus, Denmark
Current location: Aarhus, Denmark
For me a Dandy is an aesthetic
with a passion for quality and an eye for details. A Dandy is self confident
and self contained.
2. How would you describe your style?
I am very inspired by the
British Gentleman – dress well and according to the situation. My wardrobe
mainly consists of vintage suits, jackets and hats.
3. If you could choose one era in time, what would it be
and why?
I would definitely choose the
inter-war period – 1920 to 1935. A lot happened in Britain with the gentlemen’s
attire in that period: the Edwardian black tail coats were supplemented with
shorter jackets; the lounge suit emerged; the numerous ties and bow ties won
terrain. A period in Britain that still is the base for modern men’s attire worldwide.
4. What's your favourite item of clothing and why?
My favourite item is my
vintage 1955 bespoke three piece Prince of Wales check flannel suit by Savile Row
tailors Meyer & Mortimer, London. The suit was originally commissioned by a
British Major.
The suit emphasises the Dandy: the craftsmanship in the
tailoring and stitching, the quality of the fabric, the vivid colours, the
versatility and the fit.
5. How long have you been dressing like you do?
I had my calling two years
ago, where I bought my first vintage suit. I have started this journey to dress
gentlemanly from scratch; I grew up in the anti-authorities-1970s with
semi-hippie parents. My purpose was to dress as a grown-up and to use good quality
materials and local (European) suppliers.
6. Do you ever dress down?
I dress appropriately; when in
the country side I wear tweed – preferably breeks.
At home I omit the suit
jacket; wearing shirt and waist coat or adding a slipover or jumper. I usually
wear tie or bow tie also at home, but sometimes I wear a cravat instead. In the
evening (at home without guests) I would dress in pyjamas and dressing gown –
combined with a cravat. And when running I wear trainers, shorts etc.
7. How do you put together an outfit? Do you spend a long
time planning it or do you just pull it together?
Dressing appropriately implies
taking into account the needed periods of rest for the suits, shoes and ties. For
example, a flannel suit should rest for at least two days in between wearing.
Furthermore the various fabrics and materials in the ensemble should somehow
match: a sturdy Harris Tweed jacket is better matched with a wool tie – or a
Shantung silk. And not a 36 oz Foulard. And a brown full brogue matches maybe
the versatile town and country suit, but not the charcoal city suit.
Experience
makes you capable of picking the perfect match almost blindfolded. But dressing
well takes a certain amount of planning and coordination so the periods of rest
are respected and you do not appear in the same ensembles too often.
8. Where do you get your clothes from?
My suits are
mainly vintage – from chap outfitters like Savvy Row and the former Bookster.uk.
Ebay.uk have many serious vintage clothiers like Kompendium, Victory Vintage
etc. You have to know your exact measures to buy vintage clothing online – and a
local alterations tailor.
Combined with contemporary
exquisite trimmings from Stenström’s (shirts), Bresciani (socks), Drakes (ties)
and Thurston (braces). And good year welted shoes from Cheaney & Sons,
London.
I also acquired
several items from British period outfitters Darcy Clothing; e.g. the
magnificent detachable stiff collars.
9. You must attract a lot of attention from people
because of the way you present yourself. What kind of things do people say to
you?
People tend to react
positively to my appearance. Commenting the ties, pocket squares, the shoes,
but mostly praising the overall look. A thing that struck me several times is
the respect people show a well-dresser; most men would not dress like this, but
they appreciate the effort.
In the public I have
experienced cars stopping and cameras emerging from the car window.
10. What people or things inspire you?
I am inspired by people who
are passionate about their profession, their hobby, their appearance. Sir
Winston Churchill is a great inspiration – a gentleman, a passionate believer
in right and wrong, a man capable putting his will through; And a great dresser
– maybe not dressing to impress, but dressing appropriately.
Huge inspirations
attire-wise are men like Sir Anthony Eden, Cary Grant, Fred Astaire.
But I must admit that my
single most used source of inspiration is the fictitious gentleman Bertram
Wilberforce Wooster as depicted in the 1990s ITV production ‘Jeeves &
Wooster’ by actor Hugh Laurie.
11. There are lots of sartorial rules, it seems. ‘Never
brown in town’ and ‘don’t wear a matching tie and pocket square’. Do you follow
any rules?
I see most of the rules as
rules-of-thumb if in doubt. Dressing well is based on experience watching
hundreds of combinations of colours and materials. And for the inexperienced
the rules makes life easier – they are based in common sense in my opinion.
E.g. ‘no brown in town’ makes
it easier to remember that in the city grey or blue suits are more appropriate
as tweed is meant for the country side and white or cream cotton or linen suits
meant for the summer vacation – a rule that leaves the sturdy brogues, the
spectators and the white bucks out of the city. I try to dress according to my
pursuits and the weather and therefore I inevitably will follow more rules. But
a nice espresso brown oxford or munk shoe matches a navy suit perfectly and
should in my mind be worn in town.
12. You write a rather magnificent blog, chronicling your
gentlemanly attire. What made you start writing it?
I started my attire chronicles
because I wanted to share my findings – the suits, the history, the fabrics and
the colours – with fellow-minded chaps. Also hoping to inspire other men to
making the effort of dressing well.
I chose to write in English for two reasons: I am very inspired by the British gentleman and as English is used in large parts of the world I am able to share my passion also with people abroad.
13. What is your definition of a gentleman?
A gentleman is educated,
tactful, able to see things in a broader perspective and able and willing to
take responsibility to help others by using his knowledge and skills.
14. Are there any particular accessories you like to wear?
I wear pocket squares every
day. Hats and caps are worn too seldom in public nowadays – I find them very
becoming and practical. After the initial second thoughts I have grown very
fond of my Fedoras, my bond flat cap and my Homburg.
Many days I also wear my
antique pocket watch – with a single Albert silver chain and fob if wearing a
three piece suit or attached to a military style leather strap if wearing
tweed.
Well, there you have it! If you consider yourself to be a delightful dandy and would like to be featured, please do send me a missive.
Now, scamper over to Lasse's periodical post-haste.
G.M. Norton
Protagonist of 'Norton of Morton'
Protagonist of 'Norton of Morton'
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A superbly written interview, with a thoroughly interesting chap. I shall certainly peruse his blog at another time.
ReplyDeletehelenorama.blogspot.com
A most worthy read, dear lady! I shall cast my eye over your blog too, starting with your latest on gin. May I also recommend another weblog - the splendidly named, Institute for Alcoholic Experimentation.
DeleteOh splendid, I shall look that up.
ReplyDelete